Skip the Strippers: Why Harsh Exfoliants Might Be Causing You Harm
Shop Skincare


Hydrolytic® Serum 30ml
Anti-Aging + Deep Hydration
£97.00


Hydrolytic® Moisturizer 30ml
24-hr Hydration + Rebalance
£45.00


The Hydrolytic® Duo
Hydrolytic® Serum + Moisturizer
£142.00 £129.00
Science
The Science Behind fjör



Quiz
Take the Skin Quiz
Shop
Science
Science
Community
Community
Quiz
Quiz
Cart (0)
Your cart is empty
Continue ShoppingJan 27, 2025
Skip the Strippers: Why Harsh Exfoliants Might Be Causing You Harm
When it comes to exfoliation, we’ve been taught to scrub, peel, and strip away layers in pursuit of glowing skin. But what if the secret to healthy skin isn’t about taking away but respecting what’s already there? The harsh methods many rely on—like retinol and alpha/beta hydroxy acids (AHAs/BHAs)—may deliver quick results, but they come with a hidden cost: irritation, sensitivity, and microbiome disrupt the skins.

Contents of this article
Key takeaways from this article
- Harsh exfoliants like retinol and AHAs/BHAs damage the skin barrier and cause irritation.
- Retinol is under strict regulation due to safety concerns, including reproductive risks and can cause irritation.
- AHAs/BHAs are gentler but still have side effects and lack research on their effects on the skin microbiome.
- Enzyme exfoliators can support microbiome diversity while being gentle on the skin.
Why Exfoliation Needs a Smarter Approach
The goal of exfoliation should be to gently remove dead skin cells to reveal a fresh complextion, without damaging the protective layers of the skin.
However, this is difficult as Dr. Zeichner, director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital, explains “Exfoliating can disrupt the outer skin layer and create an inhospitable environment for microorganisms, which can disrupt the balance of the microbiome promoting inflammation.”
Let’s take a closer look at why some exfoliants fall short and what we can use to overcome their issues.
Retinol’s Not-So-Perfect Reputation
Retinol is often celebrated for its ability to smooth fine lines and improve skin texture, but the truth is more complex. Retinol's harsh effects on the skin barrier make it unsuitable for many, particularly those with sensitive skin.
Retinol irritation arises from three primary mechanisms, as outlined in studies. First, it disrupts the skin barrier by impairing key proteins like filaggrin, which increases transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and weakens the skin's protective layer. Second, it triggers an inflammatory response by releasing pro-inflammatory cytokines such as IL-6 and IL-1, leading to redness, peeling, and swelling. Finally, retinol induces neurogenic inflammation by activating sensory neurons via the TRPV1 channel, causing sensations of burning and stinging.
This irritation isn’t just a temporary inconvenience—it potential leaves your skin vulnerable to external pathogens and UV exposure.
In response to these concerns, the EU Commission introduced stricter limits on retinol in skincare products, citing risks of cumulative toxicity and reproductive harm. From December 2024, retinol concentrations are capped at 0.3% for face care products and 0.05% for body care products. They particularly noted reproductive toxicity risks, finding that excessive exposure from cosmetics, diet, and other sources could pose significant risk to fetal development.
We’ve searched extensively for research on retinol’s impact on the skin microbiome and found only one highly flawed study. This study claimed positive effects but was based on just nine participants and excluded those who experienced adverse reactions. Could those adverse reactions have been caused by a disrupted microbiome? This raises serious questions about the integrity of the research and highlights the level of "science-washing" often present in skincare.
While retinol has its place in skincare, its harshness and the lack of robust evidence about its microbiome effects make it a risky choice for many.
AHAs/BHAs Aren’t Without Their Issues
Alpha/beta hydroxy acids (AHAs/BHAs), such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, are often marketed as a gentler alternative to retinol. While they are less likely to cause the extreme irritation associated with retinol, they still pose potential risks.
AHAs/BHAs work by thinning the outermost layer of the skin (the stratum corneum) to reveal fresher skin underneath. However, this process also disrupts the skin barrier, leading to increased TEWL, redness, and irritation. Additionally, thinning the stratum corneum makes skin more vulnerable to UV radiation, increasing the risk of sunburn, premature aging, and long-term damage.
Despite their popularity, little is known about how AHAs/BHAs affect the skin microbiome. While there is extensive research on their exfoliating benefits, studies fail to address their impact on microbiome balance. This gap leaves questions about their long-term safety unanswered.
Why Enzymes Are Better
Unlike retinol and AHAs, enzyme exfoliators work in harmony with your skin. Enzymes target only dead surface cells, without going deeper into the skin to disrupt alive layers. This leaves the skin barrier and live cells intact.
As Candace Marino, medical esthetician at The LA Facialist, explains "Enzymes will be the gentlest form of exfoliation because they digest dead surface cells without impacting live cells."
In particular, the Hydrolytic® Enzyme stands out by actively supporting microbiome diversity, enhancing the balance of beneficial microorganisms while delivering effective and gentle exfoliation. This approach minimizes inflammation and irritation, addressing the key drawbacks of harsher exfoliants like retinol and AHAs/BHAs.
fjör’s Recommendation: Skip the Strippers
At fjör, we believe skincare should work with your skin, not against it. Harsh exfoliants like retinol and AHAs/BHAs may promise instant results, but their long-term risks to your skin barrier and microbiome are under research and could be considerable.
Instead, we recommend choosing enzyme-based exfoliators. These gentle alternatives respect your skin’s natural balance while delivering visible results. So, skip the strippers and embrace a new approach to exfoliation—one that prioritizes healthy, resilient skin over quick fixes.

The Hydrolytic® Duo
Hydrolytic® Serum + Moisturizer
Your Questions, Our Priority
What is retinol, and how does it work?
Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A commonly used in skincare for its anti-aging properties. It works by increasing skin cell turnover, stimulating collagen production, and reducing fine lines and wrinkles. However, it can also disrupt the skin barrier and cause irritation, redness, and dryness, especially with overuse or high concentrations.
What is fjör?
fjör is a microbiome skincare brand from Scandinavia, designed to boost skin health by enhancing microbiome diversity. Using innovative Hydrolytic® Enzyme technology, fjör supports sensitive skin with a minimalist approach, focusing on resilience, hydration, and balance for a naturally radiant complexion.
What are AHAs, and what do they do for the skin?
Alpha/beta hydroxy acids (AHAs/BHAs) are water-soluble acids like glycolic acid and lactic acid that exfoliate the skin by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells. This helps reveal fresher, smoother skin underneath. However, AHAs/BHAs can also thin the skin’s outer layer, making it more sensitive to UV radiation and prone to irritation.
What is the Hydrolytic® Enzyme, and how does it benefit the skin?
The Hydrolytic® Enzyme is a gentle exfoliating ingredient designed to target and remove only dead skin cells without damaging live cells or the skin barrier. It helps maintain microbiome diversity, promoting a balanced and healthy skin ecosystem while delivering effective exfoliation.
What is the skin barrier, and why is it important?
The skin barrier, also known as the stratum corneum, is the outermost layer of the skin that acts as a protective shield. It prevents water loss, keeps out harmful substances, and supports skin health. A damaged barrier can lead to dryness, irritation, and increased sensitivity to external stressors.
What is microbiome diversity, and why does it matter for skin health?
Microbiome diversity refers to the variety of microorganisms, such as bacteria and fungi, living on the skin. A diverse microbiome helps protect the skin from harmful pathogens, reduce inflammation, and maintain overall skin health. Low diversity can contribute to sensitivity, redness, and other skin issues.
How do AHAs impact the skin barrier?
AHAs exfoliate by thinning the outer skin layer, which can compromise the skin barrier. This leads to increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), making the skin more vulnerable to irritants and environmental damage. Overuse can also exacerbate dryness and sensitivity.
Authors

Written by William Smithwite
Co-founder of fjör & Skin Microbiome Expert

Reviewed by Natalie Enslöw
Founder & CEO of fjör
References
- Narsa, Angga Cipta, et al. "A Comprehensive Review of the Strategies to Reduce Retinoid-Induced Skin Irritation in Topical Formulation." Dermatology Research and Practice, vol. 2024, 2024, Article 5551774, https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1155/2024/5551774.
- Kang, Seongsu, et al. "Anti-Irritant Strategy against Retinol Based on the Genetic Analysis of Korean Population: A Genetically Guided Top–Down Approach." Pharmaceutics, vol. 13, no. 12, 2021, Article 2006, https://www.mdpi.com/1999-4923/13/12/2006.
- Bai, De, et al. "High Stability and Low Irritation of Retinol Propionate and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate Supramolecular Nanoparticles with Effective Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy." Pharmaceutics, vol. 15, no. 3, 2023, Article 731, https://www.mdpi.com/1999-4923/15/3/731.
- European Union. Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/996 of 3 April 2024 Amending Annexes II, III, and V to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on Cosmetic Products. Official Journal of the European Union, 2024, https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/PDF/?uri=OJ%3AL_202400996.
- Imhof, L., and D. Leuthard. "Topical Over-the-Counter Antiaging Agents: An Update and Systematic Review." Dermatology, vol. 237, no. 2, 2021, pp. 217–229, https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32882685/.
- Almeman, Ahmad Abdulrahman. "Evaluating the Efficacy and Safety of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids in Dermatological Practice: A Comprehensive Clinical and Legal Review." Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, vol. 17, 2024, pp. 1661–1685, https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.2147/CCID.S453243.
- Gui, Minyan, et al. "Decoding the Anti-Aging Effect of Retinol in Reshaping the Human Skin Microbiome Niches." bioRxiv, 2024, https://www.biorxiv.org/content/10.1101/2024.06.26.600860v1.full.pdf.
Contents of this article
- Why Exfoliation Needs a Smarter Approach
- Retinol’s Not-So-Perfect Reputation
- AHAs/BHAs Aren’t Without Their Issues
- Why Enzymes Are Better
- fjör’s Recommendation: Skip the Strippers
- The Hydrolytic® Duo
- Your Questions, Our Priority
Authors

Written by William Smithwite
Co-founder of fjör & Skin Microbiome Expert

Reviewed by Natalie Enslöw
Founder & CEO of fjör